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Pictures and Text by Floyd L. Truitt , July 2007
The instructions herein are suggestions only. Many carvers will use a different approach. This is perfectly all right. It is the end product that is important as long as the basic guidelines and dimensions are followed. More information about this project can be found at http://eaglecane.com/
STEP 1 – mark a centerline all around your blank.
If carved away, redraw it to keep the carving symmetrical
Photo 1 STEP 2 – Following pattern, draw in top and bottom views.
If possible, insert head blank on a shaft and mark all around top of shaft onto bottom of head blank.
Mark areas to be removed as shown in
Photos 2, 3 and 4.
Photo 2 
Photo 4
STEP 3 – Remove areas marked in step 2.
Stay outside of lines.
Refer often to photos of an actual eagle from your reference material.
When finished with this step, your carving should look something like photos 5, 6 and 7
Photo 5 
Photo 7
STEP 4 – Mark in Brow Area and lower beak area on bottom and sides of carving using pattern.
See photo 8.
Photo 8 STEP 5 – Cut into these areas with a U gouge and small V tool.
Further shape the beak and remove shaded areas shown in Photos 9 & 10
Photo 9 
Photo 11 - Progress so far.
STEP 6 – Remove shaded throat area, rounding over with a #8, 9, or 12mm (1/2”) gouge and blend it into the neck area.
Photos 12, 13 and 14.
Photo 12 
Photo 13
Photo 14
STEP 7 – At this point, you have to decide whether you are going to carve the eyes or use glass eyes.
If you are going to carve them, use the already drilled hole to serve as the pupil and round the eye outward using a sharp detail knife and finish it with a burner.
Later you can fill this hole or just leave it and paint it black.
When carving the eye, refer to photos of actual eagles.
STEP 7 continued – Glass Eye: Yellow, 9mm.
Make ¼” deep hole with a 9 or 10 mm, #8 gouge or, if using power as I did, a 9 mm cylinder burr or any suitable one you may have.
Use the pre-drilled hole as the center and dry fit an eye.
DON’T PLACE EYE IN SOCKET PERMANENTLY AT THIS POINT.
See Photo 15.
Photo 15 Refer to photos of a real eagle and you will notice you have to re-shape the brow and blend it into the crown of the head.
See Photo 16.
Also, you will notice I was not happy with the profile of the beak so I modified it.
Photo 16 STEP 8 – Sand entire carving (150 grit).
Draw in the cere or fleshy looking nostril area and nostril opening
See photo 17.
Photo 17 Note: Eye has only been set in temporarily.
Carve in the areas for separation from the beak making shallow cuts with a small U shape gouge.
Carve to these areas with a sharp detail knife and finish smoothing with sandpaper.
Photo 18.
Photo 18 Remove eyes and seal entire carving.
The eaglehead carving is now complete.
It is ready for permanently setting the eyes, feather detailing and painting.
Photo 19
Photo 19 STEP 9 – Setting in the glass eyes permanently.
For this step, you will need a good two part epoxy.
I have used QUIK WOOD, which works very well, but there are also others that you may have.
Cut off a small amount
See Photo 20.
Photo 20 Thoroughly mix the bit you cut off by kneading until a uniform gray color is achieved.
Make 2 small pebble size balls about 1/4” in diameter.
See Photo 21.
Photo 21 Place one of these in each eye socket and immediately position the eyes by pressing firmly.
They should be tilted toward the front approximately 45 degrees.
IMPORTANT: Be sure both eyes are positioned correctly and looks the same from the front, top and bottom.
When you are satisfied with their placement, remove any excess epoxy (I use dental tools) and you can use some of the excess to form and eye ring and fill any spaces or valleys.
You must work rather quickly before the epoxy sets up.
Photo 22 
Photo 23